Surrender your breath, Venice will take it from you.
Our room with a canal side view booked, comfy footwear polished, pages from the wonderful Polpo cookery & unofficial Venice good food guide book tucked under our arm we ventured forth from Southend Airport in a very un E.M. Forster manner.
Art done & done it was was, there was time a plenty to wander the sestiere in search of recommendations in the epicurean department from Polpo & to uncover a few of our own firsthand.
A decent spritz topped our list of must finds, and find it we did, several times, at Bar Refolo in Castello. Vertiginous stools outside this tiny hole in the wall are always in demand as are the bitter spritz and local wines served by two burly but very friendly bar staff, one of whom is called Elvis! Soft salty goat like cheese & fried aubergine in a small dusty rolls were a great accompaniment to our viewing of the evening stroll by locals & interlopers alike.
After having bought purple artichokes from the floating vegetable stall in the far corner of Campo Santa Margherita, the famous Red Caffe in this bustling square, is also a great place to hang out, late afternoon with a tumbler of, the orange wonder. Good olives too.
Elvis recommended a restaurant for us to try, owned by the wonderful, welcoming Donatello a man who I suspect has seen a thing or two & who was happy to furnish me with the intricacies of the dishes I ate, Il Nuovo Galleon was a sweet treat. In the Polpo book a dish of cuttlefish in its ink was described as looking like 'Darth Vader’s helmet' I had a plate and have to agree that it's a pretty accurate description although the taste, oh the taste, cooked slowly for three hours the day before, accompanied by some soft Polenta it’s a delight, maybe one best savoured in the dark.